Order Retail Nursery Plants Online Here!
 


 
Trees Vines Rose
Bushes
Gardening
Accessories
New!
Seeds

Services
> Wholesale
> Support & Resources
> Gardening Q & A Library
Gardening Articles
Gardening Blog
 

 

Oak
Ornamental
Pine
Privacy
Shade
Small
Small Yard
Spruce
Tall
Unique
Wildlife
Windbreak
 

 
   




Composting the Easy Way

by Michael J. McGroarty - www.freeplants.com

Having an ample supply of good rich compost is the gardeners dream.  It has many uses, and all of those uses will result in nicer plants.  However, composting can be time consuming and hard work. 

READ MORE GREAT GARDEN ARTICLES AT www.freeplants.com

I place a reasonable value on my time, so spending hours and hours turning compost piles doesnít qualify as a worthwhile exercise, at least in my book.  Nonetheless, I do compost, but I do so on my terms.  

I built two composting bins.  Each bin is five feet wide, five feet deep, and four feet high.  I built the bins by sinking 4Ē by 4Ē posts in the ground for the corners, and then nailed 2 by 4ís and 1 by 4ís, alternating on the sides.  I left 2Ē gaps between the boards for air circulation.  The 2 by 4ís are rigid enough to keep the sides from bowing out, and in between each 2 by 4 I used 1 by 4ís to save a little money.  The bins are only 3 sided, I left the front of the bins open so they can be filled and emptied easily.  

Photos of my compost bins are on this page:
Composting Pictures

I started by filling just one of the bins.  I put grass clippings, dried leaves, and shrub clippings in the bins.  I try not to put more than 6Ē of each material on a layer.  You donít want 24Ē of grass clippings in the bin, you should alternate layers of green and brown material.  If necessary, keep a few bags of dry leaves around so you can alternate layers of brown waste and green waste.  When we root cuttings we use coarse sand in the flats, so when itís time to pull the rooted cuttings out of the flats, the old sand goes on the compost pile.  In or little backyard nursery we also have some plants in containers that do not survive.  Rather than pulling the dead plant and the weeds out of the container, and then dumping the potting soil back on the soil pile, we just dump the whole container in the compost bin, this adds more brown material to the mix, and is a lot easier than separating the soil and the weeds.

Once the bin is full, the rules of composting say that  you should turn the material in the bin every few weeks. There  is no way that I have time to do that, so this is what I do. I  pack as much material in the bin as I can, before I start  filling the second bin. I pile the material as high as I  possibly can, and even let it spill out in front of the bin.   Then I cover all the fresh material with mulch or potting soil,  whatever brown material I can find. Then when Iím out working  in the garden I set a small sprinkler on top of the pile and  turn it on very low, so a small spray of water runs on the  material. Since I have a good water well, this doesnít cost me  anything, so I let it run for at least two hours as often as I  can. This keeps the material damp, and the moisture will cause  the pile to heat up, which is what makes the composting action  take place.

Once I have the first bin completely full, I start  using the second bin. As the material in the first bin starts  to break down, it will settle, and the bin is no longer heaped  up, so I just keep shoveling the material that I piled in front  of the bin, up on top of the pile, until all the material is  either in the bin, or piled on top of the heap. Then I just  leave it alone, except to water it once in a while. The  watering isnít necessary, it just speeds the process.

Because I donít turn the pile, I canít expect all of the material to rot completely.  The material in the center is going to break down more than the material on the edges, but most of it does breakdown quite well.  

The next step works great for me because Iíve got a small nursery, so I keep a pile of potting soil on hand at all times.  But you can really do the same thing by just buying two or three yards of shredded mulch to get started, and piling it up near your compost bins.  If you do this, you will always have a supply of good compost to work with.

Shredded bark, left in a pile will eventually breakdown and become great compost.  The potting soil that I use is about 80% rotted bark.  I make potting soil by purchasing fine textured, and dark hardwood bark mulch, and I just put it in a pile and let it rot.  The secret is to keep the pile low and flat, so that it does not shed the rain water away, you want the mulch to stay as wet as possible, this will cause it to breakdown fairly quick.

So I keep a pile of rotted bark mulch near my compost  bins. When both bins are completely full, I empty the bin  containing the oldest material by piling it on top of my rotted  bark mulch. I make sure the pile of rotted mulch is wide and  flat on top so that when I put the material from the compost  bin on top of the pile, the compost material is only 5 to 10  inches thick. My mulch pile might be 12í wide, but it may only  be 24 to 30 inches high. Once I have all the compost on top of  the pile, then I go around the edge of the pile with a shovel,  and take some of the material from the edges of the pile and  toss it up on top of the pile, covering the compost with at  least 6Ē of rotted bark. This will cause the compost material  to decompose the rest of the way.

Once you get this system started, you never want to use  all of the material in the pile. Always keep at least 2 to 3  cubic yards on hand so youíve got something to mix with your  compost. If you use a lot of compost material like I do, then  you should buy more material and add to your pile in the late  summer or fall, once you are done using it for the season.   Around here many of the supply companies sell a compost  material that is already broken down quite well. This is what  I buy to add to my stock pile. But I try to make sure that I  have at least 3 yards of old material on hand, then Iíll add  another 3 yards of fresh material to that. Then in the spring  Iíll empty one of the compost bins and add the compost to the  top of the pile.

The pile of usable compost will be layers of material,  some more composted than others. Kind of like a sandwich. So what I do is chip off a section of the pile from the edge,  spread it out on the ground so itís only about 8Ē deep, then  run over it with my small rototiller. This mixes it together  perfectly, and I shovel it onto the potting bench.

Having a pile of rotted compost near your compost bins is great because if you have a lot of leaves or grass clippings, you can throw some rotted compost in the bin in order to maintain that layered effect that is necessary in order for the composting process to work well.

Sure this process is a little work, but it sure is nice to have a place to get rid of organic waste anytime I like.  Then down the road when I have beautiful compost to add to my potting soil, I am grateful to have done the right thing earlier, and I know that I have wasted nothing.

READ MORE GREAT ARTICLES AT www.freeplants.com

Keywords:
backyard compost bin, backyard compost piles, backyard composting, build a compost, build a compost pile, build compost pile, building a compost pile, compost heap, compost how to make, compost info, compost ingredients, compost materials, compost pile, compost pile design, compost pile information, compost pile ingredients, compost pile layers, compost pile turning, creating a compost pile, directions for making compost, home composting, hot to build a compost pile, how do compost bins work, how do i create a compost pile?, how does a compost pile work, how to construct a compost pile, how to make a compost pile at home, how to make a homemade compost pile, illustration of an compost pile, instructions on making compost, make good compost, make your own compost, making a compost pile, making compost for gardens, making compost pile, making compost piles, organic compost pile, starting a compost pile, what to put in a compost pile

    >> Gardening Articles
        
 
by Michael J. McGroarty

 



Visit Sand Mountain Herbs
for over 400 Herb Seeds & Roots!


They have have exotic & hard to find herbs such as Spanish Sage, Sacred Green Basil, Greek Myrtle, Schisandra, Chinese Agrimony, Chinese Cucumber, Lime Basil, Tomatillo, Greek Oregano, French Thyme, Maypop, Osage Orange, Licorice, Catnip, & many more to choose from!

Customer Testimonials | Customer Support | About Us | Privacy Policy | Site Map | Images & Content

  Nursery Plants.info
The Freshest Nursery Plants delivered directly to your door!
We proudly accept the following:
 
Copyright 2005-2008 Nursery Plants, Info.
All Rights Reserved.